Very happy to read Mark Bittman’s new column. He’s not only one of my favorite recipe-writers (How to Cook Everything is opened on a nearly daily basis around here), he’s a fantastic writer. Love to read him wax rhapsodic about a meal or pick apart the foodie – I mean, flexitarian – movement.
Last night at our screening of Food, Inc the question was raised about how to choose eggs wisely.
This can be more complicated than Indiana Jones and the Hall of Holy Grails.
So when a friend this morning mentioned she wants to up her egg intake, I offered (at her request!) the following suggestions which I have gleaned from my studies of the food system.
I try to base my opinions on the hardest evidence I can find and not be especially emotional or anthropomorphic. I do subscribe to Slow Food Principles (Good, Clean & Fair) and hold a personal spiritual conviction that we are stewards of the earth and animals, responsible to them – and to our fellow humans – to carefully consider our impact.
That said, this is just from my personal observations and reading, and I haven’t done a ton of specialized research. So if I’m wrong about something, by all means please leave a comment and correct me! We are all here to learn. (But no need to comment about how “eating all eggs is evil” or something because that’s not the purpose of this post. We’re changing the food system from the inside; there’s certainly a place for those who wish to boycott as well, but I’m writing this for the “buycotters” out there.)
So…disclaimers & provisos finished with, let’s move on…
If you want to eat eggs & chicken that were raised the closest way possible to their natural God-given behaviors, here’s what they do: they want to be outside. They scratch the ground. They forage and eat bugs. They take dust baths and flap around a lot. They are social creatures with established networks (yes there is a “pecking order”).
So, battery cages – standard practice in the egg industry – are really against their natural behavior. If eggs are cheap you can bet they’re from cages. Same goes for that $2.99 rotisserie cooking under the heat lamps…sorry to disappoint.
But this post is about eggs, specifically. And the language you see on egg labels is mighty confusing. Here are what a few of the standard terms mean:
Cage Free: exactly that, but nothing more. Usually means kept in a dark, hot barn, with thousands of hens (one friend called it a “sea of chickens”) crammed in together. They are not in cages but they’re running around in their filth and eating god knows what (but mostly corn). Diseases do spread. Natural behaviors are minimal. Note: Organic chickens can be raised this way. They just have to be eating organic corn/soy.
Free Range or Free Roaming: this is up for debate (and there are no standards universally anyway) but most of the time it does mean some measure of outside time. I understand it to mean a step better than Cage Free. Animal activist websites do claim that Free Range is no different, and it may not be in some (many?) cases.
Fertile: means they were exposed to a rooster, which increases the likelihood of the chickens being actually roaming. Also, boy & girl chickens together is more natural than not. It is very, very difficult if not impossible for a large farm to maintain roosters, so fertile eggs will usually be from a smaller operation (but note that the smallest backyard enthusiasts also usually can’t keep roosters because they are loud, make babies, and can be rather mean – they didn’t start cockfighting because these were cuddly creatures).
[Roosters btw are a whole other issue - male chicks at large operations are gassed to death at one day old, en masse - thousands and thousands per year. They are an unusable byproduct of the egg industry. You can't guarantee you're not contributing to that unless you know the farmer and know what they do with their males - most family farms will raise the males for meat, which is preferable IMO.]
Vegetarian: hens are not naturally vegetarian. I think this is used to trick ovo-vegetarians into feeling comfortable because they know the hen hasn’t been eating, say, dead animals (which isn’t very common). But actually what it means is that the hen’s diet was controlled, i.e. she ate corn and/or soy exclusively. This isn’t a natural diet for a hen, and it means she couldn’t have been freely roaming. As mentioned above, if given her choice, she would also be eating seeds, grass, and bugs. So I avoid vegetarian or vegetarian-fed eggs.
Brown: Color doesn’t matter. Egg colors just vary based on the type of chicken that laid them. Some lay beautiful pink, purple, orange, and multi-colored eggs. There is no nutritional difference between a brown or a white egg (it’s not like bread…and even then, just brown bread doesn’t mean it’s healthier…but that’s another post).
Now, obviously, if you can keep your own chickens for eggs, more power to you. As long as you commit to it and your hens don’t wind up at the Humane Society because you bit off more than you could chew (a common problem in places I’ve lived such as Berkeley, where it was fashionable to build a coop but somebody forgot to point out there was a learning curve), this is the very best way to get eggs, hands down. And if you have a friend willing to do that work and give/sell you eggs, so much the better!!
But if you can’t raise them and your friends don’t either, then here is my “pecking order” (ha ha) for how to choose eggs wisely:
1. Farmer’s market eggs ($5-7/dozen ouch!) when I’ve talked to the provider and trust her/his methods. Note that not all FM eggs are raised right – I’ve seen eggs at the FM from caged hens or big operations, even just carted over from the supermarket. An alternative would be to seek out a CSA (be it veggie or meat) that includes eggs.
2. Fertile free range or free roaming eggs
3. Organic free range – USDA organic is supposed to carry some modicum of humanity in the animal treatment. And usually anything raised in an organic manner is better for the environment. Also, supposedly organics can’t contain GMO ingredients (although I’ve just been told that non-GMO corn doesn’t exist any longer…so organic corn would be GMO…I have to check on that).
4. Organic cage free from a local store I trust is using my dollar wisely – because I will balance the benefit to my local economy and a well-paid worker, plus the fossil fuels saved by local shopping, against the welfare of the chicken, just like I will also take into account the environmental health of an organic vs. non-organic production method.
Hope this is helpful, and please do leave a comment – whether you like it or if I’m unknowingly giving bad or wrong advice!
Here was a big dinner WIN for us the other night! We used ground pork from the ranch (making this veg would be easy, too) and TJ’s organic diced tomatoes w/green chiles.
Since our broth wound up being too spicy for the kids (darn you, TJ’s medium salsa!) we scooped out the solids (that just sounds gross, but I know no other way to describe) and, in a flash of genius, threw it into boxed mac n cheese! The kids LOVED their “taco-roni and cheese” – sure to be a new favorite. They each ate their ENTIRE bowl, even after they’d eaten the bites required to get dessert.
My husband doesn’t like brothy soups either /eyeroll/, so we poured off most of the broth and plan to use it to make delicious Spanish rice to have with tacos tonight. More genius! Somebody get me a MacArthur grant!!
Anyway he & I ate our (innards? solids? meats & vegs?) topped with sharp cheddar and sour cream. One of the easiest and most delish dinners we’ve had in a good long time.
BTW we also made a full pound of meat, adding the onions, garlic & spices (we made up our own taco seasoning – packets are silly when you usually have everything on hand except the weird stuff), then reserved half of that combo for taco night tonight. To go with our Spanish rice. Wow. I can’t wait for dinner time!
If you want to find the ridiculous amount of joy I apparently have from this simple recipe, go here: Mexican Taco Stew from Whole Foods
I’ve recently added a Facebook page for FoodiEvangelist, and I invite you all to come “Like” it.
I’ve just created a photo album of some of our recent family dinners, with recipes! It’s been a fun project, recording our meals, so I plan to keep adding to it. I know we all need help coming up with ideas and it’s really good if somebody else does the initial recipe testing!
UPDATE: You need to click the link above or go to
and “Like” THAT page. Just “liking” this post will not affect Facebook, you’re just liking it on WordPress. So click the link, “Like” the FB page, and then you can see the photos and all the other fun FB stuff.
And I’ll likely be posting there a lot more often than here, so definitely get over there if you want to follow me.
It’s back to school time for many of us who provide meals for our families! Here’s a great list of creative ideas for jazzing up your kids’ lunches. I think the “theme a day” idea is very smart to keep some semblance of order but also keep things creative and fun. I love the “lunch money” idea.
For my kids, I do a lot of “bento style” (i.e. tiny containers with various finger foods) and that goes over well. They seem to always eat better if stuff is cut into shapes (my mom’s mantra is “It’s all about the presentation”), so I keep a supply of cute cookie cutters on hand for sandwiches, cheese, etc. (my preschoolers get a kick out of the ones shaped like their initials). One of my proudest moments as a mom was when my son’s teacher told me I make “the best” lunches!
Why not write your kid’s “love note” in meats & cheeses, with “I <3 U” cookie cutters? Plus, you can choose better-for-them products without all that junk that’s in Lunchables (shudder!).
What are some of your winning ideas for your kids’ school lunch?